Health and Happiness: Day 4, Agra Day Tour

I kept a journal during my travels and am going to transcribe those entries here.

We arrived at the Nizamuddin Rail Station at 6am and it was rather easy finding our train, the Taj Express. The chair cars were comfortable and our fellow passengers consisted of other foreigners and middle class Indians. I was so excited to finally be on a train, which is such a Bollywood icon - how many times have I seen train scenes in those movies? My window seat afforded me more views of Indian life and landscape but my giddiness died down once the sun rose - I saw slum cities lining the tracks, people making fires and warming their hands over them, and children roaming over the garbage. I also did see some more idyllic and village views, which reminded of me of Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge and that "Pardesi" song that was playing on their way to Punjab.

My mom thought this cup of chai was a "sample size."

On the train, we witnessed a scene right out of an Indian movie. I could not understand the words being used, but a rail inspector started hassling one of the passengers, who was hotly retorting back. A few other men jumped in and the voices were escalating with volume and tension. Just as rapidly as it had started, it all cooled down.

As soon as we got off the train, the hawkers descended upon us and I started to feel anxious - how stupid was I, to think we would get off at Agra Cantt and nicely find a taxi to take us to the Taj! Thank God that I found a government tourist office inside of the station, and as soon as the hawkers saw my line of sight they immediately barraged me with claims that I was going to get ripped off and that they would offer a tour for cheaper. Well, I would feel much safer being inside that office and that's where I went!

For about $35 per person, we had a large bus and tour guide, all to ourselves and 6 others in our group. It was so worth it because I felt very safe. Although I was dismayed at the sights as we were driving through Agra: the city of the famous Taj Mahal seemed rundown and dilapidated more often than not.

That's actually 3 people on a motorbike. I also saw 4 people on a motorbike and like 8 people in an autorickshaw.

Fatehpur Sikri was our first stop and it is essentially a glorified ghost town. The Mughal empire's buildings and structures are beautiful preserved and we got to hear a lot of the history behind it thanks to our knowledgeable tour guide. One particular fact was that Akbar the Great had three wives: the first was a Portuguese Christian from Goa; the second, a Muslim from Turkey; and the third (his favorite and true love) was the Hindu Princess from Rajasthan, Jodhaabhai. She had a majestic part of the palace complex all to herself.

Paanch Mahal, the first prominent building one sees upon entering.

Jodhaabhai's quarters

At the tomb of Salim Chisti, a Sufi saint, the hawkers were so aggressive at selling their merchandise that I couldn't enjoy this holy place one bit. It was surreal, with 10 young men surrounding me and in my face, trying to sell me things I could care less about. One man actually put a dvd into my hand and then demanded 200 rupees! Not taking no for an answer, I set the dvd on the ground and gave him 100 rupees to go away - he was upset, but placed a postcard book in my hand so that at least I bought something. For a good 20 minutes I was hounded here and at Buland Darwaza, and was shaking with anger by the time we were out. I completely lost my composure.

The white marble tomb of Salim Chisti

Inside of the tomb

The view of Agra from Buland Darwaza

I calmed myself down on the way to Agra Fort, which was incredibly imposing and monumental. Only a third of it is open to the public and the rest is under Indian military occupation. We learned a lot about the history behind the fort as well as Shah Jahan.

Agra Fort

All pure stone-work; when the light shines upon the surface, the marble and stones sparkle

Cows really do roam the streets; unfortunately, most of them looked neglected and starved

The Taj Mahal was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my life - I felt like I was walking straight into a dream. This world wonder, which I had seen countless of times on tv or in print, was actually in front of me! Even now, in America looking back on my entire trip, I can say that this was my most favorite part. I can still recall the happiness and wonder swelling up inside me as I stood in front of this marvelous monument to love.