Day 7, New Delhi: Humayun's Tomb, Karol Bagh

I kept a journal during my travels and am going to transcribe those entries here.

We started the day by visiting Humayun's tomb, an elaborate and majestic mausoleum which later served as the model for the Taj Mahal. Since it was so close to the dargah, we ventured out on foot but on the way there we were accosted by a beggar woman. For better or for worse, I was resolved to not open my purse in the crowded alleys of the dargah neighborhood and I tried to ignore this lady; honestly, you feel a mix of pity and annoyance and heartbreak and slight despair after a week of facing beggars. If I were to reach for my bag, I would be mobbed by at least ten others and then followed out by another ten. If I were to ignore her, I would initially feel like a bad person but then would rationalize it: after all, I'm not a foreign bank. Anyway, I tried to ignore her but she was feisty and relentless, following us all the way out to the street and rapidly talking away the entire time. I was more concerned with crossing the street in one piece (Delhi traffic is most definitely not pedestrian friendly) and started to view her as an annoyance - so I angrily gave her 50 rupees to go away. Does that make me a terrible person? Like I said, after a week you start to get disillusioned with a lot of things. Begging is a damn business here, and it starts to feel like everyone is needy and in dire straits. There's a general feeling of powerlessness and you are faced with the realization that the world is a big place and you are but a useless little speck in it.

Back to the tomb.

After the terrifying run across the street, we felt like we were in a different world from the one we left behind, just a few meters away. The area leading into the tomb is shady and green, idyllic and serene. There are jarring contrasts like this throughout Delhi, and none so pronounced as a park or national monument juxtaposed with dusty, traffic-clogged streets. I feel like a broken record when rhapsodizing over the architecture, but it really is that magnificent; just beholding such monuments inspires awe, reverence and beautiful feelings. I noticed many similarities with the Taj Mahal, especially in the symmetry, domes and arches - but while I was completely wonderstruck with the Taj, I felt a more serene atmosphere here. There weren't as many visitors and there was much more greenery; we didn't feel rushed, and we walked around soaking up the environment.

Humayun's Tomb

Side view - take a look at that symmetry!

The stars are astrological signs

Various tombs are scattered throughout

Afterwards, we found an autorickshaw to take us to the neighborhood of Karol Bagh. It was about a twenty five minute ride, and adventurous as always! The neighborhood was as busy and bustling as Lajpat Nagar, but I felt much more comfortable now: I was making good bargains and cutting my way through the crowds like an expert (well, as expert as a foreigner can be!) There were still beggars to be found, but not as many, and I did hand out rupees discreetly here and there.

We had quite a shopping spree and I bought a gorgeous sari of magenta chiffon with silver/black border and sequins. We also found a McDonald's and I was excited to see what an Indian McDonald's menu looked like; being pescetarian, I wish we had McSpicy paneer sandwiches over here! It was delicious but spicy as hell!

DELISH!

Day 6, New Delhi: Mawlid al-Nabi in the dargah

I kept a journal during my travels and am going to transcribe those entries here.

I found an in-the-hole internet cafe! I was so excited to finally find an outlet to the "real world," and to be able to express all of these feelings I had pent up. This was my facebook post:

I HAVE INTERNET ACCESS!!! Found an internet cafe and omg wow the little things in life I can't believe how much I've missed being online! WELL... India is such a freakin overwhelming place, I don't even know where to begin. Riding in an auto rickshaw is a death-defying experience, but fun at the same time. Garam panni is not really garam.. lukewarm at best. The driving here is nuts, period. The food is delicious. The markets have a fun environment. I've had such a beautiful spiritual experience in the dargahs, praying at the tomb of the saints. There are beggars EVERYWHERE. I mean everywhere. Like literally everywhere. My mind still cannot fully process it. I saw the Taj Mahal yesterday and I felt like I was in a dream, it was simply magical. I'm seeing bollywood and slumdog millionaire at the same time. Over-freakin-whelming. Six days here and I'm just now getting the hang of it.

Tonight was Mawlid al-Nabi, which is the Prophet Muhammad's (PBUH) birthday. We had quite an experience inside of the Nizamuddin dargah, as we participated in group prayers and observed and touched relics of the prophet's. The dargah was decorated with lights, flowers and beautiful drapes; while there was a sea of people in a small space, there was also an undeniable energy. I felt like I truly took part in a holy experience and there was a beautiful contentment in my soul.

Inside of the festive dargah

A strand of the prophet's hair is held by the wax

Passing through

There was a sea of people in a small space

The prophet's footprint, preserved and immortalized

Quite an experience just to behold this

Lights make an event quite festive

Day 4, Agra Day Tour

I kept a journal during my travels and am going to transcribe those entries here.
 
We arrived at the Nizamuddin Rail Station at 6am and it was rather easy finding our train, the Taj Express. The chair cars were comfortable and our fellow passengers consisted of other foreigners and middle class Indians. I was so excited to finally be on a train, which is such a Bollywood icon - how many times have I seen train scenes in those movies? My window seat afforded me more views of Indian life and landscape but my giddiness died down once the sun rose - I saw slum cities lining the tracks, people making fires and warming their hands over them, and children roaming over the garbage. I also did see some more idyllic and village views, which reminded of me of Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge and that "Pardesi" song that was playing on their way to Punjab.

 My mom thought this cup of chai was a "sample size."

On the train, we witnessed a scene right out of an Indian movie. I could not understand the words being used, but a rail inspector started hassling one of the passengers, who was hotly retorting back. A few other men jumped in and the voices were escalating with volume and tension. Just as rapidly as it had started, it all cooled down.

As soon as we got off the train, the hawkers descended upon us and I started to feel anxious - how stupid was I, to think we would get off at Agra Cantt and nicely find a taxi to take us to the Taj! Thank God that I found a government tourist office inside of the station, and as soon as the hawkers saw my line of sight they immediately barraged me with claims that I was going to get ripped off and that they would offer a tour for cheaper. Well, I would feel much safer being inside that office and that's where I went!

For about $35 per person, we had a large bus and tour guide, all to ourselves and 6 others in our group. It was so worth it because I felt very safe. Although I was dismayed at the sights as we were driving through Agra: the city of the famous Taj Mahal seemed rundown and dilapidated more often than not.

That's actually 3 people on a motorbike. I also saw 4 people on a motorbike and like 8 people in an autorickshaw.

Fatehpur Sikri was our first stop and it is essentially a glorified ghost town. The Mughal empire's buildings and structures are beautiful preserved and we got to hear a lot of the history behind it thanks to our knowledgeable tour guide. One particular fact was that Akbar the Great had three wives: the first was a Portuguese Christian from Goa; the second, a Muslim from Turkey; and the third (his favorite and true love) was the Hindu Princess from Rajasthan, Jodhaabhai. She had a majestic part of the palace complex all to herself.

Paanch Mahal, the first prominent building one sees upon entering.

Jodhaabhai's quarters

At the tomb of Salim Chisti, a Sufi saint, the hawkers were so aggressive at selling their merchandise that I couldn't enjoy this holy place one bit. It was surreal, with 10 young men surrounding me and in my face, trying to sell me things I could care less about. One man actually put a dvd into my hand and then demanded 200 rupees! Not taking no for an answer, I set the dvd on the ground and gave him 100 rupees to go away - he was upset, but placed a postcard book in my hand so that at least I bought something. For a good 20 minutes I was hounded here and at Buland Darwaza, and was shaking with anger by the time we were out. I completely lost my composure.

The white marble tomb of Salim Chisti

Inside of the tomb

The view of Agra from Buland Darwaza

I calmed myself down on the way to Agra Fort, which was incredibly imposing and monumental. Only a third of it is open to the public and the rest is under Indian military occupation. We learned a lot about the history behind the fort as well as Shah Jahan.

Agra Fort

All pure stone-work; when the light shines upon the surface, the marble and stones sparkle

Cows really do roam the streets; unfortunately, most of them looked neglected and starved

The Taj Mahal was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my life - I felt like I was walking straight into a dream. This world wonder, which I had seen countless of times on tv or in print, was actually in front of me! Even now, in America looking back on my entire trip, I can say that this was my most favorite part. I can still recall the happiness and wonder swelling up inside me as I stood in front of this marvelous monument to love.

Pictures cannot do it justice

Can you spot the moon?

The sun was starting to set over the Yamuna River

Quranic scripture decorates the monument and its gates

Oh, you know... just chilling at the Taj :)